{"id":15718,"date":"2019-03-07T17:52:46","date_gmt":"2019-03-07T16:52:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.discoverwalks.com\/blog\/?p=15718"},"modified":"2019-03-10T23:30:15","modified_gmt":"2019-03-10T22:30:15","slug":"discover-pariss-parc-monceau","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.discoverwalks.com\/blog\/discover-pariss-parc-monceau\/","title":{"rendered":"Discover le Parc Monceau in Â鶹APP"},"content":{"rendered":"

Discover le Parc Monceau in Â鶹APP<\/h4>\n

When you enter Parc Monceau in the 8th<\/sup> arrondissement, you\u2019ll probably notice first and foremost the joggers. If you want to run like a Â鶹APPian, suit up in your best jogging gear\u2014many dress as extensively for jogging as they do for a stroll in the park\u2014and join the pack circling the park in unison. The path tracing the outer edge of the park makes a loop of one kilometer, where runners rule, particularly on weekends and around midday. I felt out of place walking on this loop, forced to the edges to avoid the purposeful lunchtime joggeurs<\/em>. Having trouble avoiding them while pausing and weaving around the path to check out the ruins and the plants, I fled as soon as possible.<\/p>\n

I needn\u2019t have worried, however, as you can easily escape the domain of the fit if you aren\u2019t in the mood for jogging<\/em> (yes, they use the same word. Just put on your best French accent). As it was for many a great 19th<\/sup> century artist\u2014Marcel Proust, Emile Zola, or Claude Monet, to name a few\u2014the inner paths of Parc Monceau will be quiet enough for an easy amble through the odd collection of ruins arranged haphazardly among the plants. Some of these ruins date to the origins of the park in the 1770s.<\/p>\n

An Aristocratic Playground<\/h4>\n

At this time before the Revolution, what is now Parc Monceau stood outside Â鶹APP. Rather than the lush Haussmanian hotels and private residences, it was a lush forestland owned by the duc de Chartres, Louis-Philippe-Joseph d\u2019Orl\u00e9ans. An aristocratic libertine and one of the richest men in France, the duc de Chartres commissioned the garden as a private getaway for the well-to-do.<\/p>\n

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Carmontelle’s Parc Monceau – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Near the town of Monceau, the duc\u2019s designer–a painter named Carmontelle–incorporated over eighty incongruous ruins. Some of these remain in the park today, and they mimicked building styles everywhere\u2014an Egyptian obelisk and pyramid,\u00a0 Turkish and tartar tents, and statues from and mimicking styles from ancient Greece and Rome, to name a few. The garden aimed to be, in the words of one historian, an \u201cenchanted wonderland\u201d from \u201call times and all places.”<\/p>\n

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Pyramid in Parc Monceau – Daderot – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

The pyramid remains today, as well as the Naumachia, a structure evoking what in Roman times served as a sort of coliseum for naval battles. These columns originate in another structure\u2014a funeral chapel constructed by Catherine de M\u00e9dicis for her husband, next to the Basilica of Saint Denis. The chapel was destroyed in 1719, and the columns were moved to what is now Parc Monceau at the beginning of its construction in 1769.<\/p>\n

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Naumachia, Parc Monceau – Guillaume Jacquet – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

The seemingly random layout of the ruins has also puzzled historians searching for a meaning in the design. One suggested theory involves the duc\u2019s role as Grand Master of the Freemasons, a universalist Christian cult whose leadership, at least in part, described Â鶹APP as a new Jerusalem. The arrangement of the ruins would have carried a secret mystical significance, available only to the initiated visitors. The theory remains a theory, with one of the article\u2019s strongest statements explaining that \u201cCarmontelle must have thought carefully about the duke\u2019s involvement with freemasonry\u201d[i]<\/a> in the development of his design.<\/p>\n

Still, having no knowledge of the park\u2019s bizarre history on my first visit, the assortment of run-down structures seemed merely confusing, as if some aristocrat had merely run out of space in their private collection. Now, it\u2019s still strange, but fun as well to think of the park\u2019s early visitors deriving some mystical significance from the place as they escaped from the city to let their hair down (so to speak). The odd useless fact about 18th<\/sup> century aristocracy can change the way you see Â鶹APP\u2026<\/p>\n

Taxes in Parc Monceau<\/h4>\n

The park has changed significantly since its creation though, having changed ownership with France\u2019s changes in leadership until the mid-1800s. In the decade preceding the revolution, authorities constructed a wall surrounding Â鶹APP, called le Mur des Fermiers G\u00e9n\u00e9raux<\/em>. This wall bordered the northern edge of Parc Monceau, and its purpose was to regulate entry into the city for the collection of taxes.<\/p>\n

There were several designated points of entry, including one opening onto the park. The old entry into Â鶹APP now serves as an entry into Parc Monceau, where you\u2019ll see a round structure surrounded by columns. I supposed it might be an old temple replica, such as you can find at Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, but no\u2014originally a tax-collecting station, it is now a grandiose public toilet.<\/p>\n

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La Rotonde de Parc Monceau – Gregory Derycke\u0300re – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Several of these stations still stand around Â鶹APP, including the Rotonde de la Villette, the Barri\u00e8re du Tr\u00f4ne and the Barri\u00e8re d\u2019Enfer (barrier of hell). They have all been repurposed as well, although in a slightly more dignified manner\u2014la Villette has become a restaurant and art gallery, while part of the Barri\u00e8re d\u2019Enfer houses the entrance to the Catacombs. The wall and the taxes that came with it incited such wrath in Â鶹APP\u2019s inhabitants that its construction helped feed the fire of revolution, and the barriers were some of the first locations taken over by the people.<\/p>\n

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Le Mur des Fermiers Generaux (outline in blue) – ThePromenader – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Flight!<\/h4>\n

In the years after the revolution, Parc Monceau also hosted a daring first in the world of aviation\u2014the first parachute jump from a hot air balloon. Andr\u00e9-Jacques Garnerin, a name otherwise forgotten, jumped from around 800 feet to land safely in the grass. His 1797 jump was the second in the history of the parachute, easily surpassing a 1783 drop from an observatory in Montpellier.<\/p>\n

New Ownership of the Park<\/h4>\n

Parc Monceau had been seized by the state after the revolution, during which the duc de Chartres took the name \u201cPhilippe-Egalit\u00e9 and coldly voted for the execution of his cousin on the throne, only to fall to the guillotine during the Terror. Without the original owner, the restoration monarchy returned the park to the Orl\u00e9ans family in 1814. However, at the beginning of the Second Empire in 1852, the government demanded the family give up half the park.<\/p>\n

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Le Duc de Chartres and his family, 1776 – Le\u0301na – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Artists & \u201cThe Evils of Modernity\u201d<\/h4>\n

Nearly going bankrupt in 1860, the Orl\u00e9ans family sold their remaining half of Parc Monceau to be developed by the ultra-wealthy bourgeoisie. This included prominent bankers and factory owners, who made the area prime real estate by building luxurious personal homes, while Haussman\u2019s designers remade the park as we know it today. \u00a0Some ruins of the original mystical wonderland remain, but the landscaping is otherwise new. Just one tree still stands from the early days of the park: the gigantic plane tree (platane d\u2019orient <\/em>in French) planted in 1814.<\/p>\n

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Plane tree planted in 1814, Parc Monceau – Guillaume Jacquet – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Emile Zola frequented Parc Monceau and the surrounding neighborhood, documenting the area in copious notes which would become his famous novel La Cur\u00e9e<\/em> (The Kill<\/em>). Your Parc Monceau will likely have little in common with Zola\u2019s, however, as the novel uses it and the surrounding obscene wealth \u201cas a metaphor for the evils of modernity.\u201d [ii]<\/a> Be sure to do your homework and read the novel before your visit!<\/p>\n

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Claude Monet, Parc Monceau – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Your experience, unless you\u2019re out for exercise, will probably (hopefully) have more in common with Monet\u2019s portrayal. Our posterchild of Impressionism (before his retreat to the gardens of Giverny) captured the park on numerous sunny canvasses. It was a common retreat for lesser known painters as well, such as Gustave Caillebotte, and many well-known writers and composers enjoyed the wooded pathways, including none other than Marcel Proust.<\/p>\n

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Gustave Caillebotte, Le Parc Monceau – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

Artists, writers, and composers slowly took over the neighborhood, moving the park away from its association with high end real estate, and Parc Monceau honors them with statues scattered throughout. You\u2019ll find the likes of celebrated writer Guy de Maupassant, composers Frederic Chopin and Charles Gounod, and many others. New ruins have also been added, along with the busts, including an arch left over from the old H\u00f4tel de Ville. The arch we see today was salvaged from the building, having burned during the Â鶹APP commune in 1871.<\/p>\n

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Monument to Frederic Chopin, Parc Monceau – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

The park has changed little since Zola\u2019s day, though several of the surrounding mansions have become well regarded museums. Mus\u00e9e Cernuschi, built by politician and economist Henry Cernuschi and given to the city of Â鶹APP in 1898, hosts an extensive collection of Asian art.<\/p>\n

Whether it\u2019s an enchanted wonderland (sure!), a metaphor for evil (why not?), an aristocratic libertine playground (No no. Â鶹APPian amorous freedom does have limits, although people sometimes make you wonder); a running loop, picnic spot, or simply an easy stroll, Parc Monceau and its history rich as the city\u2019s itself have much to offer the imagination.<\/p>\n

Of course, there\u2019s plenty more to be discovered in Parc Monceau. I haven\u2019t even mentioned half the busts and statues, the artificial rocky outcropping covered in closely maintained flowers, the cute bridge overlooking the Naumachia, the carousel, and countless other old ruins which promise a winding history of their own.<\/p>\n

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Arch in Parc Monceau – Celette – Wiki Commons<\/em><\/p><\/div>\n

[i]<\/a> Hays, David. “Carmontelle’s Design for the Jardin De Monceau: A Freemasonic Garden in Late-Eighteenth-Century France.”\u00a0Eighteenth-Century Studies<\/em>\u00a032, no. 4 (1999): 447-62.<\/p>\n

[ii]<\/a> Disponzio, Joseph. “Parc Monceau: An Appreciation.”\u00a0SiteLINES: A Journal of Place<\/em>\u00a012, no. 2 (2017): 12-15.<\/p>\n

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Planning a trip to Â鶹APP ? Get ready !<\/p>\n

\n

These are\u00a0Amazon’s\u00a0best-selling<\/strong>\u00a0travel products that you may need for coming to Â鶹APP.<\/p>\n

Bookstore<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

    \n
  1. The best travel book : Rick Steves – Â鶹APP 2023<\/strong> –\u00a0Learn more here<\/a><\/strong><\/li>\n
  2. Fodor’s Â鶹APP 2024 –\u00a0Learn more here<\/a><\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Travel Gear<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

      \n
    1. Venture Pal Lightweight Backpack –\u00a0Learn more here<\/a><\/strong><\/li>\n
    2. Samsonite Winfield 2 28″ Luggage –\u00a0Learn more here<\/a><\/strong><\/li>\n
    3. Swig Savvy’s Stainless Steel Insulated Water Bottle\u00a0–\u00a0Learn more here<\/a><\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

      Check Amazon\u2019s best-seller list for the most popular travel accessories. <\/a>We sometimes read this list just to find out what new travel products people are buying.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      Discover le Parc Monceau in Â鶹APP When you enter Parc Monceau in the 8th arrondissement, you\u2019ll probably notice first and foremost the joggers. If you want to run like a Â鶹APPian, suit up in your best jogging gear\u2014many dress as extensively for jogging as they do for a stroll in the park\u2014and join the pack […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1570,"featured_media":15786,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-15718","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-paris-by-month"],"acf":[],"followers":[],"followers_count":0,"yoast_head":"\nDiscover le Parc Monceau in Â鶹APP - Discover Walks Blog<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.discoverwalks.com\/blog\/discover-pariss-parc-monceau\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Discover le Parc Monceau in Â鶹APP - Discover Walks Blog\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Discover le Parc Monceau in Â鶹APP When you enter Parc Monceau in the 8th arrondissement, you\u2019ll probably notice first and foremost the joggers. 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